Leash Training

Your Puppy Has Already Started

Your Spartan puppy has already been introduced to a leash before coming home.

I start leash work at around six weeks old.

At this age, I'm not expecting a perfect heel or a puppy marching politely beside me

like they've been doing this for years.

I'm beginning with a much simpler lesson:

There's a person on the other end of this leash.

Pay attention to them, and let's go together. From the beginning, I want your puppy learning to check in with you—not just put their head down, head off in a direction and expect you to follow.

When your puppy comes home, you're not starting from scratch.

You're continuing what I've already started.

What I Like to Use

You don't need a lot of fancy equipment, but there are a couple of things I personally like when I'm leash training.

A Leash With Multiple Handles

I really like a sturdy leash with three handles positioned at different points along the leash.

It lets me quickly change how much distance I give the puppy.

Sometimes I want the puppy fairly close to me. Other times I want to give them a little more room.

Instead of wrapping the leash around my hand or constantly gathering it up,

I can simply change which handle I'm using.

A Wide Training Chain

I also like using a wide slip-style training chain when I'm working with puppies and dogs.

I'm not using it to drag a puppy around or keep constant pressure on their neck.

The purpose is communication.

I want the puppy to notice the leash pressure, respond to me, and then have that pressure immediately release.

Pressure isn't where I want the puppy to live. A loose leash is.

Make Sure the Training Chain Is On Correctly

If you're going to use a slip-style training chain, learn how to put it on correctly.

This matters.

The chain should tighten when leash pressure is applied and, just as importantly, loosen again as soon as that pressure is released.

If your puppy will be walking on your left side, a common way to remember the correct orientation is that the chain looks like the letter “P” when you're facing your dog and preparing to put it over their head.

If your dog walks on your right, the orientation is reversed.

Before you start walking, test it.

A little tension → release → make sure the chain loosens again.

If it stays tight around your puppy's neck after the leash has gone slack, stop and reposition it before continuing.

The release matters.

That's part of how the puppy learns what you want.

And never leave a slip-style training chain on an unattended or kenneled puppy.

It's for supervised leash work and should be removed when you're finished.

Step 1: Keep Those First Sessions Short

A young puppy doesn't need a long training walk.

Especially during those first days at home, keep your leash sessions short, easy and positive.

Five good minutes can accomplish more than twenty minutes of pulling, dragging, stopping and getting frustrated with each other.

You're teaching your puppy how to work with you.

You're not trying to wear them out.

Step 2: Teach “Let's Go”

I like a simple cue such as:

“Let's go.”

Get your puppy's attention and start moving.

Encourage them to come along with you.

When they're moving nicely with you and the leash is loose, praise them. You can also use small treats, especially while they're first learning.

We're beginning to establish a very simple pattern:

Pay attention → follow me → loose leash → we keep moving.

Step 3: Teach Your Puppy to Check In With You

This is a BIG part of leash training.

Walking on a leash isn't just about keeping your puppy from pulling.

I want the puppy paying attention to the person on the other end of that leash.

Your puppy should learn to check in with you—look at you, notice where you're going and pay attention when something changes.

I don't want a puppy putting their head down, charging ahead and basically saying:

“Come on, human. We're going THIS way.” 😂

They're not supposed to walk you.

As you're walking, notice those moments when your puppy looks up at you on their own.

Reward that.

Praise them, acknowledge them and keep moving.

That's exactly what we want:

Puppy walks → checks in with you → you acknowledge it → keep moving.

You can also use your puppy's name when you need their attention.

Say it once.

When they look at you, praise them.

Remember our “report for work” idea?

This is what it looks like on a leash.

“I'm walking with my person, so I need to pay attention to what they're doing.”

They Don't Have to Stare at You

Checking in doesn't mean your puppy has to walk down the road staring into your eyes the entire time.

They can look around.

They can enjoy their surroundings.

They can sniff when you allow it.

But they should remain aware of you.

If you slow down, they notice.

If you stop, they notice.

If you change direction, they notice.

If you ask for their attention, they give it to you.

That's what we're trying to build.

Step 4: Stop and Reset When the Leash Gets Tight

Here's one of the simplest rules you can teach:

Tight leash = we stop.

Loose leash = we move.

If your puppy learns that pulling gets them everywhere they want to go, guess what?

They'll pull.

And remember—you're raising a Rottweiler.

Eventually they're going to be much better at the pulling game than you are. 😂

When the leash gets tight, don't get into a contest to see who can pull harder.

Stop.

Get your puppy's attention.

Encourage them back toward you.

As soon as they respond and that leash becomes loose again, release the pressure, praise them and continue walking.

You don't need to stand there for five minutes waiting for the puppy to magically figure everything out.

Help them understand what you want.

The lesson becomes:

Pulling doesn't get me there faster.

Paying attention to my person does.

Step 5: Change Directions

You don't always have to walk in a straight line.

Occasionally change direction and encourage your puppy to come with you.

Turn.

Walk several steps another way.

Use “Let's go.”

Praise them when they notice and follow.

This teaches your puppy to pay attention to where you are going instead of assuming you'll follow wherever they decide to go.

We're not trying to surprise or jerk the puppy around.

We're teaching:

You need to keep track of the person on the other end of that leash.

Step 6: Add Distractions Gradually

A puppy who walks beautifully with you in the house may suddenly appear to have forgotten everything when you go somewhere more interesting.

That's normal.

Just because your puppy understands something in the house or driveway doesn't mean they automatically understand that the same rules apply everywhere else.

Start somewhere easy. Then gradually practice around more distractions and in different safe, appropriate environments as your puppy grows.

Give them time to look around and take things in. Then ask them to check back in with you and practice the same skills.

Teach the skill first. Then make the environment harder.

And with a young puppy, choose safe places that are appropriate for their age and vaccination status.

Step 7: Practice in Different Places

Puppies don't automatically understand that something they learned at home also applies everywhere else.

Your puppy may understand:

“I walk nicely with Mom in the driveway.”

That doesn't necessarily mean:

“I walk nicely with Mom everywhere on Earth.”

Practice in different safe, appropriate environments as your puppy grows.

Keep the sessions short.

Give them time to look around and take things in.

Then ask for their attention and practice the same skills.

As Your Puppy Gets Better, Change How You Reward

At first, you may reward frequently.

That's okay.

We're helping the puppy understand exactly what behavior we want.

As they get better, you don't need to hand them a treat every few steps.

Start mixing it up.

Use praise.

Keep walking.

Let them sniff something interesting.

Give an occasional food reward.

And when you're working around a harder distraction, you can bring those higher-value treats back out.

Rewards don't have to disappear just because your puppy understands the lesson.

They simply change as your puppy gets better.

What If My Puppy Plants Their Feet?

Oh, they will. 😂

Sometimes putting a leash on a perfectly functional puppy suddenly makes them forget that they have four legs.

Don't turn it into a tug-of-war.

Encourage them.

Move away from them.

Pat your leg.

Use your voice.

You can use a treat to encourage those first few steps.

The moment they start moving with you, praise them and keep going.

We're teaching them what we want—not dragging them into position.

What If My Puppy Bites the Leash?

Some puppies think the leash is the greatest tug toy ever invented.

Try not to prove them right. 😂

If your puppy grabs the leash, don't start pulling back and accidentally turn it into a game.

Stop moving.

Get their attention back on you.

Redirect them if necessary.

Once they've settled and released the leash, continue walking.

And pay attention to when the leash biting starts.

If your puppy has been training, playing, exploring and getting more and more wild, leash biting may be telling you something else:

That puppy may be tired or overstimulated.

Sometimes the answer isn't another ten minutes of leash training.

Sometimes the puppy needs a nap.

Let Your Puppy Sniff

Sniffing isn't bad behavior.

Your puppy is learning about their world.

There can be times when you allow them to sniff and explore—and other times when you say:

“Let's go.”

and expect them to come with you.

You can even use permission to go sniff as a reward.

The lesson becomes:

Sometimes you get to explore. Sometimes I need you to come with me.

Both are part of learning to walk nicely on a leash.

Loose-Leash Walking Isn't the Same as “Heel”

I'm not expecting an eight-week-old puppy to perform a formal Heel.

A formal Heel is a much more precise position and can be taught later.

For everyday life, what I want right now is much simpler:

Pay attention to me.

Don't drag me.

Check in with me.

Notice when I stop or change direction.

Come with me when I ask.

Walk on a loose leash.

That's our foundation.

Use the Skills You're Already Teaching

Leash training doesn't happen separately from everything else.

Remember—the walk starts before you walk out the door.

Don't let putting on the leash become the signal for your puppy to charge through the doorway.

Ask for a Sit or Wait, open the door, and release them with OK when you're ready to go.

It's the same lesson we're teaching throughout all of this:

Pay attention to me instead of making your own decision and taking off.

It's a great place to practice:

Sit before you start.

Wait before going through a doorway.

Your puppy's name when you want them to check in.

Come when appropriate.

Let's go when it's time to move.

OK when you're releasing them to sniff or explore.

All those little lessons start fitting together.

Remember What We're Really Teaching

Your young puppy doesn't need to walk like a finished adult dog.

They need to learn how to work with the person holding the leash.

Keep sessions short.

Reward attention.

Teach them to check in.

Don't let pulling get them where they want to go.

Let them explore when appropriate.

Gradually add distractions.

And remember:

The leash isn't a steering wheel.

The goal isn't to physically steer your puppy everywhere they go.

The goal is for that puppy to start thinking:

“Where is my person going? I better go with them.”

Don't just teach your puppy not to pull. Teach them that the person on the other end of the leash matters.